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Moda Sotto le Bombe: the photos

Moda Sotto le Bombe. La Giornata di Teresa” è il nome dello spettacolo teatrale che ho ideato e scritto nel 2019, e che ho diretto insieme al mio collega Vito Antonio Lerario. Un viaggio sinestetico a ritroso nel tempo, nei bui anni del secondo conflitto mondiale, tra abiti e accessori rarissimi e autentici dell’epoca. Quattro le date sold out da dicembre 2019 a febbraio 2020.

Teresa, interpretata da Rosemary Nicassio, è una giovane donna nel suo giorno del matrimonio, mentre dal cielo piovono bombe. Attraverso la sua narrazione, e quella di sua cugina Anna, interpretata da Barbara De Palma, sono riemerse storie dimenticate, insieme a identità scivolate nell’oblio del tempo.

I racconti provengono in gran parte da fatti realmente accaduti, frutto di interviste e ricerche effettuate da me nel tempo, e svelano aspetti storici dimenticati. I costumi di scena, come anticipato, sono autentici e provengono dai territori occupati dai nazisti. Datati 1939 – 1945 appartengono all’archivio museale Lerario Lapadula.

Abiti e accessori che portano tutti i segni della guerra, degli stenti. Indumenti autarchici in cui alla seta si sostituisce la canapa, ai ricami in paillettes la raffia. Macchiati, rammendati, segnati dal proprio destino i vestiti sono apparsi – sotto le bombe – indossati da performer e attrici che hanno rievocato come fantasmi storie lontane.

Ha aperto la manifestazione il reduce Prof. Pietro Suma, preziosa, inestimabile, rara la sua testimonianza.

Suggestiva, evocativa, la location: lo storico palazzo Anmig, Casa del Mutilato di Bari.

La dimensione sinestetica si è completata con i suoni al pianoforte, profondi e delicati, del Maestro Stefania Gianfrancesco, dal Circolo Beethoven di Bari, e con gli evocativi profumi che aleggiavano in sala, realizzati da Francesca Dell’Oro

Trucco e acconciature di scena a cura di Nouvelle Esthétique Académie. Suggestive luci a cura di Melody Service, di G. Venisti, grazie ad Ornella Polieri. Seguono le suggestive immagini a cura di Emilio Badolati ed Eleonora Bosna.

Uno spettacolo che oggi più che mai è utile a ricordare quel che è accaduto, ancora accade e mai più dovrebbe accadere. Presto, anche per questo, tornerà in scena.

“Moda Sotto le Bombe. La Giornata di Teresa” is the name of the theatrical show I conceived and wrote in 2019, and which I directed together with my colleague Vito Antonio Lerario. A synaesthetic journey back in time, in the dark years of the Second World War, among very rare and authentic clothes and accessories of the time. Four sold out dates from December 2019 to February 2020.

Teresa, played by Rosemary Nicassio, is a young woman on her wedding day, while bombs rain down from the sky. Through her narration, and that of her cousin Anna, played by Barbara De Palma, forgotten stories have re-emerged, along with identities that have slipped into the oblivion of time.

The stories come largely from real events, the result of interviews and research carried out by me over time, and reveal forgotten historical aspects. The stage costumes, as anticipated, are authentic and come from the territories occupied by the Nazis. Dated 1939 – 1945, they belong to the Lerario Lapadula museum archive.

Clothes and accessories that bear all the signs of war, hardship. Self-sufficient garments in which silk is replaced by hemp, and sequin embroidery by raffia. Stained, mended, marked by their own destiny, the clothes appeared – under the bombs – worn by performers and actresses who recalled distant stories like ghosts.

The event was opened by the veteran Prof. Pietro Suma, his testimony is precious, priceless and rare.

Suggestive, evocative, the location: the historic Anmig building, Casa del Mutilato in Bari.

The synaesthetic dimension was completed with the deep and delicate piano sounds of Maestro Stefania Gianfrancesco, from the Circolo Beethoven in Bari, and with the evocative scents that hovered in the room, created by Francesca Dell’Oro.

Stage make-up & hair by Nouvelle Esthétique Académie. Suggestive lights by Melody Service, by G. Venisti. Following are the suggestive images by Emilio Badolati and Eleonora Bosna.

A show that today more than ever is useful to remember what happened, still happens and should never happen again. Soon, also for this reason, it will return to the scene.

Emilio Badolati per “Moda Sotto le Bombe. La Giornata di Teresa”:

“Moda Sotto le Bombe”: Cast 7th Dec 2019. Ph Emilio Badolati
Me from Backstage. “Moda Sotto le Bombe”: Ph Emilio Badolati
Turning back the hands of time. “Moda Sotto le Bombe”: Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Prof. Pietro Suma shares his historical testimony of the second war conflict. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. The Pianist Stefania Gianfrancesco. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. From backstage. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. From backstage. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Rosemary Nicassio as Teresa. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Angelica Peragine. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Marina Ceglie. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. On stage. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Ilenia Pantaleo. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Edvige Colombo. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Genny Morelli as Elsa De Giorgi and Nicoletta Pastore ad Doris Duranti. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Genny Morelli. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Nicoletta Pastore. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Simona Polizzi. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Simona Polizzi and Silvia Fasano. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Valentina Del Conte. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. On stage. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Ilenia Terrevoli. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Ilenia Pantaleo. Ph Emilio Badolati
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. The Hug between Barbara De Palma and Rosemary Nicassio. Ph Emilio Badolati

Eleonora Bosna per “Moda Sotto le Bombe. La Giornata di Teresa”:

“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Ilenia Pantaleo. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Angelica Peragine. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Angelica Peragine. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Marina Ceglie, Simona Polizzi. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Angelica Peragine. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Ilenia Terrevoli. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Simona Polizzi. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Simona Polizzi. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Enza Lanotte. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Angela Lalla Conenna. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Silvia Fasano. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Cristina Taranto. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. From the rigtht.: Enza Lanotte, Silvia Fasano, Ilenia Pantaleo, Cristina Taranto. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Edvige Colombo. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Barbara De Palma as Anna. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. Barbara De Palma on stage as Anna. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe”. The Pianist Stefania Gianfrancesco. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe” Ilenia Terrevoli on stage. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe” Edvige Colombo. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe” On Stage. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe” Rosemary Nicassio. Ph Eleonora Bosna
“Moda Sotto le Bombe” The best is yet to come. Ph Eleonora Bosna
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Some copies from past – Spring Summer 2020

Spring Summer 2020. Guardando le sfilate mi sono accorto di dettagli che spaziano dal trucco alle calzature. Dettagli che sono spesso brutte copie di cose passati. Spesso in molti dimenticano le mode trascorse, così giornalisti e pubblico pensano si tratti di elementi frutto di creatività e innovazione. Vediamone alcuni.

Spring Summer 2020. Looking at the fashion shows I noticed details ranging from make-up to footwear. Details that are often bad copies of past things. Often many people forget the fashions passed, so journalists and the public think that these elements are that are the result of creativity and innovation. Sometimes, often, it is better the original. Let’s see three of them.

Style should celebrate individuality through the Twiggy’s make-up of the 60s, with the intention of emphasis the look, asserts Gucci Beauty. We are at Milan Fashion Week
and the models come on stage with bleach eyebrows covered with thick and dark artificial eyelashes. I personally believe that sometimes it would be better just copying from the past, avoiding slipping in a result lacking in sense, research. What do you think? In my comparison, on the left Gucci (ph Vogue Italia), in the right Twiggy in the 60s.

In my comparison Sharon Tate 1968 vs Mugler at his Paris Fashion Week SS 2020.
The unkempt eyebrows and fixed towards the other are not new. Ps: not even the eyeliner line is new, Chanel had already done it.

Pierre Cardin sequin gown, 1965 and Pierre Balmain on runway in Milan, 27/09/2019 for his ss 2020, ph Vogue Italia. Different dresses, same mood.

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche 1976-77 and Celine prêt-à-porter ss 2020

Boots with a particular design, which have the heel taken from the red “Delman” shoes, preserved at the Met Museum and dated 1937 – 1939. The upper part is instead a mix between the cuissardes of Roger Vivier, 1967, and the creations of André Courreges, in the photo year 1970.

A little curiosity, which has nothing to do with the above. In June I made two sketches for a project, revisiting some constriction shirts for the characters, based on their oppressed identities. What a surprise yesterday, to see that Gucci developed the same concept. On the left, my figures on the right, the images of Vogue Italia from Spring Summer 2020

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CHAPEAU from 1959 to 2019

CHAPEAU from 1959 to 2019

Il mio lavoro mi porta con frequenza a riscontrare similitudini, copie e brutte copie di abiti e accessori del passato, riproposte nel contemporaneo. Uso il termine “contemporaneo” invece di “moderno” perché ritengo più innovativi gli originali delle copie. Oggi vi mostro il copricapo in pizzo a falda larga sul viso, realizzato per Valentino fall winter 2019 – 2020 e indossato in passerella da Kaia Gerber. Lo stesso design, in tessuto trasparente, fu proposto nel 1959 da Nina Ricci. La modella nelle foto sotto indossa infatti un abito con copricapo chiamato “Jeasmine” e realizzato dal designer Jules-François Crahay (1917–1988), a Belgian-born French fashion artist who worked for the fashion house from 1952 to 1963 . Più sotto una creazione di per Adolfo Sardinia per Emme, sempre dal 1959.

My work frequently leads me to find similarities, copies and bad copies of clothes and accessories of the past re-proposed in the contemporary. I use the term “contemporary” instead of “modern” because I consider the originals of the copies to be more innovative. Today I show you the wide-brimmed lace headgear on the face, created for Valentino fall winter 2019 – 2020 and worn on the catwalk by Kaia Gerber. The same design, in semi-transparent fabric, was proposed in 1959 by Nina Ricci. In fact, the model in the picture below wears a dress together with an hat, called “Jeasmine” and made by the designer Jules-François Crahay (1917–1988), Belgian-born French fashion artist who worked for the fashion house from 1952 to 1963. Last pic: a creation of Adolfo Sardinia for Emme, 1959.

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Kaia Gerber in Valentino fw 2019/2020
“Jeasmine” model by NINA RICCI
Adolfo Sardinia hat for Emme

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Ready to Wear from Thierry Mugler ss 1992.

If the concept of “Ready to Wear” approaches “Ready Made”, to the surreal, to the world of art in its many facets. Thierry Mugler spring summer 1992. Supermodels Niki Taylor, Yasmeen Ghauri and Naomi Campbell. The three amazing and different types of beauties of the supermodels create a unique aesthetic picture of its kind. Unrepeatable today. Iconic moments for a style that ironizes on the past, on the present and on the future…on fashion, on the wearability of a dress, on its opulent aesthetics.

Niki Taylor
Yasmeen Ghauri
Yasmeen Ghauri

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An Actress, a Prince, a car crash

«Nell’estate del 1931 il principe più bello d’Europa, Umberto II di Savoia, fu oggetto di scandalose cronache che raccontavano di un presunto idillio tra il giovane, che si era sposato solo diciotto mesi prima, e la bellissima attrice hollywoodiana Jeanette MacDonald, giunta in Riviera per una vacanza. Il giorno in cui si sarebbe dovuta separare da Umberto, lei era seduta in macchina e lui era alla guida, l’automobile slittò sull’asfalto bagnato facendo sbalzare fuori dall’abitacolo i due. Il volto dell’attrice ne rimase sfigurato, per ricucirle il cuoio capelluto i chirurghi dovettero raderle la bionda chioma. Disperata Jeanette si fece aiutare dal banchiere Maurice Garfunkel che la affidò ai migliori specialisti di New York. La diva sfigurata fu restituita prontamente a Hollywood grazie a un abile intervento di chirurgia plastica.»

Tratto dal mio libro “Il Macabo e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“.

Storie incredibili, aneddoti e curiosità, info e shop al link: https://www.progedit.com/libro-589.html

«In the summer of 1931 the most beautiful prince of Europe, Umberto II of Savoy, was the object of scandalous chronicles that told of an alleged idyll between the young man, who had married only eighteen months before, and the beautiful Hollywood actress Jeanette MacDonald, come to the Riviera for holydays. The day she was supposed to leave Umberto, she was sitting in the car and he was driving, the car skidded on the wet asphalt, knocking the two out of the cockpit. The actress’s face was disfigured, and to round her scalp the surgeons had to shave her blonde hair. Desperate, Jeanette was helped by the banker Maurice Garfunkel who entrusted her to the best specialists in New York. The disfigured diva was promptly returned to Hollywood thanks to a skilful plastic surgery.»

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Back in fashion: 1916 and New Look

La moda, si sa, è fatta di eterni ritorni in fatto di stile, gusti, tendenze. E non è questo un fenomeno del tutto contemporaneo, anzi, affonda le proprie origini nella genesi della novità vestimentaria, che a dispetto del vocabolo, di nuovo spesso non ha nulla. Si confronti in proposito lo strano caso che riguarda la regina di Francia Maria Antonietta, discusso nel mio libro “Il Macabro e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume“. Oggi vi presento la curiosa rielaborazione New Look di una tendenza apparsa nel 1916. Abiti più corti dei precedenti, dai volumi sorprendentemente innovativi, morbidi, con gonne ampie e arricciate sostenute da sottovesti a balze. Colori, fantasie, capricci neo barocchi si spostano così dal ’16 al ’47 per durare questa volta più a lungo. La mia selezione fotografica per voi.

Fashion, as we know, is made up of eternal returns in terms of style, tastes and trends. And this is not a completely contemporary phenomenon, indeed, it has its origins in the genesis of the modern dress, which despite the word, often has nothing of modern. Compare in this regard the strange case concerning the queen of France Marie Antoinette, discussed in my book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume“. Today I present to you all the curious New Look reworking of a trend that appeared in 1916. Shorter dresses than the previous ones, with surprisingly innovative volumes, soft, with wide and gathered skirts supported by flounced petticoats. Colors, fantasies, new-baroque trends move from ’16 to ’47 to last this time longer. My photo selection for you.

1916 evening gown
Model in a taffeta dress by Emilio Schuberth, Rome, 1955, photo by G.M. Fadigati
Gabrielle Chanel – Robes de Jersey,1916
Marcelle Dormoy, french couture fashion designer active from the 1910s to 1950, and a former model. 1948
Delineator fashion magazine, July 1916

Jeanne Lanvin, 1916
Supermodel Barbara Mullen moeling Balenciaga Dress, 1947
Summer Afternoons dresses from April 1916
Christian Dior ball gown 1947
L’Art et la Mode, 1916
1957, Creators Studios New York
Robes et Chapeaux de Printemps – Le Style Parisien 1916
Cristobal Balenciaga 1948 Pleats, Photo Arik Népo
House of Lanvin 1916
Tailleur bar, House of Dior, 1947
Harvey Nichols day dress, 1916 From the Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection at the FIDM Museum
“Ciao Bella” Jacques Fath stripes striped 1952
Jeanne Lanvin
Marcelle Dormoy

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Some of my styling. Photoshooting in Berlin.

luciano lapadula moda history fashion stylist berlin modemuseum shooting styling beautiful teacher expert

Some of the styling I created for a photoshooting in Berlin. Vintage clothes and accessories all from my archive.

Alcuni degli styling che ho creato per lo shooting fotografico realizzato a Berlino. Abiti e accessori d’epoca, dal mio archivio.

Photography Suzana Holtgrave

Mua – Hair Noriko Takayama

Models: Iconic Management – Berlin

in collaboration with Amanda Kastrati and Andreas Weigelt (location)

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Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun: when art meets fashion

luciano lapadula moda china actress anna may wong blogger chinese 20s 1920s blog fashion magazine culture creepy macabre grotesque

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842) è senza dubbio la più significativa artista donna nella Francia del Rococò. Emancipata, dotata di una raffinata bellezza e di un talento straordinario, ha ritratto personaggi illustri e alla moda durante il regno di Maria Antonietta proseguendo nel periodo Neoclassico. Ho selezionato alcune sue opere analizzando dettagli che raccontano stili e tendenze sorprendenti.

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842) is undoubtedly the most significant female artist in Rococo France. Emancipated, endowed with a refined beauty and an extraordinary talent, she portrayed illustrious and fashionable characters during the reign of Marie Antoinette, continuing in that Neoclassical period that is very present in the artist’s canvases. I have selected some of her works by analyzing amazing details.

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Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour - 1778 - Elisabeth Louis
Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour 1778 Elisabeth Louise Vigée

Marie-Antoinette en grand habit de cour - 1778 - Elisabeth Louise Vigée baroque

1794 Aglae de Gramont, née de Polignac, duchesse de Guiche by Louise Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun
Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, La duchesse de Guise, 1794

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun seflportrait
Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun sefl-portrait 1781

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun seflportrait 1781 self portrait earring blog fashion history storia moda luciano lapadula wordpress

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782
Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782

Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Gabrielle Yolande Claude Martine de Polastron, duchesse de Polignac, 1782 hat straw flowers moda storia luciano lapadula blog blogger history fashion

elisabeth-louise_vigc3a9e_le_brun_-_portrait_of_marie_gabrielle_de_gramont_duchesse_de_caderousse_-_google_art_project
Portrait of Marie Gabrielle de Gramont, Duchesse de Caderousse, 1784 — Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun

PORTRAIT OF MARIE GABRIELLE DE GRAMONT DUCHESSE DE CADEROUSSE fashion history storia della moda art artwork blog blogger luciano lapadula

Baroness Bonne-Marie-Joséphine-Gabrielle Bernard de Boulainvilli
La Baronne de Crussol, 1785 Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Le brun

La Baronne de Crussol, 1785 Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Lebrun det fashion bodice red dress luciano lapadula art blog blogger history fashion moda storia

Elisabeth Louise Vigee Lebrun And Her Daughter 1789
Madame Vigée-Lebrun and her daughter Jeanne Lucie Louise – 1789

Elisabeth Louise Vigee Lebrun And Her Daughter 1789 neoclassis direttorio

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand 1793
Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand, 1793

Portrait of Count Grigory Chernyshev with a Mask in His Hand 1793 fashion luciano lapadula blog blogger magazine history moda storia scrittore

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Hairstyles Revival in time

revival hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair

Le acconciature al pari degli indumenti seguono delle tendenze ben precise spesso in linea con un mood che riporta in auge fogge del passato. Ecco alcuni hairstyle che ho studiato e che sono frutto di rielaborazioni di mode più vecchie.

Hairstyles like garments follow trends often in line with a mood that makes comeback styles of the past. Here are some hairstyles that I have studied that are the result of reworkings of older fashions. Follow me for more.

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1855 1955 50s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair
Haistyle: 1855 vs 1955

1920s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 20s cher louise brooks hair
Louise Brooks in 20s – Cher in 1972 by Richard Avedon

1940s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 40s pinup
Tricia Helfer for Yves Saint Laurent in 1996 vs Betty Grable in 40s

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy elle pageboy
Pageboy from 70s to now with Alice Kastrup. Ph credit Filippo Del Vita for Creem Magazine

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy
Rolled Hair in 70s and Guido Palau from “Hair” 2014

katy perry hedy lamarr hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses makeup hair waves 40s 2018 2019 2017
1940s waves and make-up from Hedy Lamarr to contemporary Katy Perry

eve salvail 1994 dior 2018 hairstyle men gay sex sexuality androginy 90s
Supermodel Eve Salvail in glorious 1994 vs Dior men 2018

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are now on #Valentino runway
The big hair of Priscilla Presley in 1968 are in 2018 on Valentino runway

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Divas of Fascist Cinema

Alida Valli Ghergo Luciano Lapadula blog moda storia attrici fascismo moda fashion history photography history blogger libro

Il volto scolpito nel marmo, uno sguardo insieme sensuale e spietato che allude all’erotismo più feroce di quei giorni bui. Le labbra violacee evidenziano un sorriso amaro, sprezzante, fiero del proprio sublime incanto. Sono le dive del cinema fascista, in un’Italia umiliata dalla guerra regnano sulle superfici dell’illusione per regalare un sogno a chi di illusione perisce.

The face sculpted in marble, a sensual and ruthless glance that alludes to the most ferocious eroticism of those dark days. The violet lips show a bitter, contemptuous smile, proud of its own sublime charm. They are the divas of Fascist cinema, in an Italy humiliated by war thay all reigns on the surfaces of illusion to give a dream to those who are diyng by illusion.

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