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90s Make-Up History pt 3: 1997 – 1999

Nei primi due post abbiamo esaminato le principali tendenze Make-Up rispettivamente ai seguenti periodi: 1990 – 1993 e 1994 – 1996. Questa volta vedremo le tendenze trucco per gli anni 1997, 1998, 1999. A differenza dei precedenti, in questi anni l’estetica risente della tensione emotiva relativa all’arrivo del nuovo secolo. Incombe un nuovo millennio che porta con sé nuovi modi di comunicare, telefonia mobile, internet, realtà cibernetiche e paura verso il futuro si fondono alla gravissima crisi economica che scaraventa la società, con il sistema moda, nel baratro. Il risultato sono immagini cupe, sofferenti. Volti bianchi, trucchi violenti, a tratti sporchi, eccessivi, neo gotici, sono abbinati a indumenti destrutturati, laceri, stropicciati, con nuove proporzioni. Dal 1997 al 1999 il sistema moda trasferisce con i propri codici estetici l’arrivo del 2000 su indumenti e corpi, il nuovo secolo spazzerà con un colpo di spugna l’edonismo degli anni ’90.

Click here for: 1990 – 1993

Click here for: 1994 – 1996

In the first two posts we have examined the main Make-Up trends respectively in the following periods: 1990 – 1993 and 1994 – 1996. This time we will see the makeup trends for the years 1997, 1998, 1999. Unlike the previous ones, in these years the aesthetics is affected by the emotional tension related to the arrival of the new century. A new millennium looms, which brings with it new ways of communicating, mobile telephony, internet, cybernetic realities and fear towards the future merge with the serious economic crisis that drives society, with the fashion system, into the abyss. The result is gloomy, suffering images. White faces, violent make-up, sometimes dirty, excessive, neo-Gothic, are combined with unstructured, tattered, wrinkled clothing with new proportions. From 1997 to 1999 the fashion system transfers the arrival of 2000 to clothing and bodies with its own aesthetic codes, the new century will sweep the hedonism of the 90s with a sponge.

Linda Evangelista in Max Mara spring summer 1997
Panda Make-Up 1997
Neo Gothic “Regard Noir” Make-Up. Year 1997
Creepy Oniric Male-Up from Vogue Italy Januaty 1997
Make-Up that re-elaborates that of the 1920s, merging it with a neo-Gothic 80s taste. This trick is still widespread during fashion shows and shoots. Karl Lagerfeld Vogue Italy January 1997
The Punk returns to the limelight in a cybernetic version. The classic make-up bandeau tends towards the future. Aldo Coppola on Vogue Italy January 1998
Color Block by Versace summer 1998. It will return to fashion exactly 20 years later, summer 2018
Rock Look Dark Look. Dolce & Gabbana summer 1998
Phylosophy by Alberta Ferretti spring summer 1998: no more smiles. ph Paolo Roversi
Ship Hat by Jean Paul Gaultier 1999. Like a modern, sad Marie Antoinette
Claudia Schiffer: the two faces of 90s. On the left 1994 ca, on the right just few years later in 1999 c. Photography by Juergen Teller
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90s Make-Up: the guide. Pt 2 1994 – 1995 – 1996

The Lux On : Make Up history from 1994 to 1996

Eccoci quindi alla seconda parte relativa alla storia del trucco anni ’90. In quest analizzo per voi la storia del Make-Up del 1994, 1995, 1996. Sono diverse le tendenze, gli stili si sovrappongono, ma ci sono degli evidenti punti fermi:

  1. Il minimalismo avanza, conducendoci verso il 2000, il trucco si fa sempre più naturale, andando verso il Make-Up no Make-Up
  2. “Bon Chic Bon Genre” per un aspetto elegante senza eccessi
  3. Il vintage impera. Si assiste a una rielaborazione di stili che in questo periodo fanno tornare alla moda il trucco 60s, fine 70s e 80s, per un aspetto rock e neo gotico. Non mancano riferimenti etnici e neo barocchi.
  4. Il look etnico anni ’70 viene rielaborato in un nuovo aspetto tribale e cibernetico.
  5. In linea con la tendenza Cyber Punk nel 1994 esplode il colore che passa dai capelli al volto. La base resta sempre chiara, semplice, ma i toni rosa e azzurro accendono labbra, zigomi, palpebre.

Nel mio prossimo post per voi, la storia del trucco dal 1997 al 1999.

CLICK HERE FOR: 1990 – 1993

CLICK HERE FOR: 1996 – 1999

So here we are in the second part related to the history of the 90s makeup. In this I analyze for you the story of the Make-Up of 1994, 1995, 1996. There are several trends, the styles overlap, but there are some evident fixed points:

  1. Minimalism advances, leading us to the year 2000, make-up becomes more natural, going towards Make-Up no Make-Up.
  2. “Bon Chic Bon Genre” for an elegant appearance without excess.
  3. Vintage reigns. We are witnessing a reworking of styles that in this period make the 60s, late 70s and 80s make-up return to fashion, for a rock and neo-Gothic look. There is no lack of ethnic and neo-baroque references.
  4. The ethnic look of the 70s is transformed into an ethnic cinebernetic look.
  5. In line with the Cyber Punk trend in 1994 the color that passes from hair to face explodes. The base is always clear, simple, but the pink and blue tones light up lips, cheekbones, eyelids.

In my next post for you, the history of makeup from 1997 to 1999.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

Divieto di copia e riproduzione. Contattare l’autore per info e disponibilità

Do Not Copy. Contact the writer for info

The actress Jodie Foster on the cover of Vanity Fair in May 1994, wears a typical make-up 1993 – 1994
Fresh Look and natural red lipstick for Kate Moss on the cover of Elle Magazine Janury 1994
One of the most iconic images of 1994 is that of the super model Eva Herzigova for Wonderbra. Beautiful, provocative look and sensual pose, her Make-Up has a vintage touch from the early 60s, in line with the trend of the first half of the 90s
pink is the trend for the summer of 1994. In this photo Kate Moss for Chanel spring summer ’94
Colorfull Make-up Vogue Italia March 1994. Pink is the new trend
“Hot Ice” makeup designed by Chanel. Very clear face, contrasting colors with mauve and peach pink eyelids and orange-coral lips, the blush is Joues Contraste Boule de Feu
Very clear face and intense pink eyelid, blue hair. Make-Up recalls Cyber Punk atmospheres. Ph Satoshi Saikusa Vogue Italy March 1994
Between Cyber and Manga this Make-Up for the summer of 1994, signed by Helena Rubinstein. Intense eyes with Black Burgundy mascara and icy pink eyeshadow, lips lit by an intense pink, the makeup appears fresh and fun overall
An explosion of pink for a Make-Up candy and cyber. Manga culture spreads in Europe, its aesthetics, combined with Cyber, gives birth to a new fashion. Ph Satoshi Saikusa Vogue Italy March 1994
A tribal, ethnic and cyber look. The ethnic look of the 70s is transformed into an ethnic cinebernetic look. Faces with a clear make-up, colored pink in various shades, from which earrings and piercings stand out. Jean Paul Gaultier 1994. Ph Satoshi Saikusa
Nadja Auermann from the Jean Paul Gaultier ethnic collection, 1994. Ph Steven Meisel. The make-up extends to the arms and hands, decorated with Henné. Fashion that will explode in 1997. We will see it in my next post.
Nadjia with a frash look who highlights her splendid face. Vogue Paris May 1994
Nadja Auermann wears a particular Make-Up considering that we are in 1994. In fact, she reworked the neon atmospheres of the early 80s. Singer Kylie Minogue introduces a similar trick to her Confide in Me. Contrasts and intense shades, the trend for the autumn of 1994 “sophisticad lady”, for a super glamorous but also retro woman. There is so much color, so many shadows that give charm to the look, a very sexy shiny lipstick. The make-up is by François Nars
A Make-Up that is a mix between the 70s and 80s, in line with all the typical revival of the 90s. This strong trick was part of what was called “techno fashion”. Vogue Italy July 1994
And again Nadja with a strong Make-Up that reworks the late 70s, giving it a rock charm. On Harper’s Bazaar September 1994
The revenge of Old Hollywood. Marlene Dietrich’s Make-Up revives through the supermodel Karen Mulder by Michael Thompson for Vogue Paris December 1994 – January 1995
Peter Lindbergh “Amber Valletta en Marlene Dietrich” – 1995
The Revival is trendy for all 90s. In January 1995 the supermodel Kristen McMenamy is photographed by Steven Meisel with a Make-Up that elaborates the Post Punk
Still revival, we are in the fall winter 1995 and supermodel Eva Herzigova shows for Vivienne Westwood with a neo-baroque Make-Up
60s atmospheres and revivals through Naomi Campbell in Anna Molinari. January 1995
An iconic photo for Dolce & Gabbana. January 1995. Among the other models there are Monica Bellucci, Karen Mulder, Amber Valletta, Nadja Auermann, Isabella Rossellini, Helena Christensen, Shalom Harlow. Makeup is characterized by a minimal chic touch that the fashion house will never abandon.
Carla Bruni settles the Make-Up. The “bon chic bon genre” style is a revival of the early 60’s, which the supermodel likes so much. September 1995, for Giorgio Grati
If in 1994 the nails follow the color of make-up and hair, in 1995 the black color explodes, in line with the minimaliso and the gothic lolita current. If in 1994 the nails follow the color of makeup and hair, in 1995 the black color explodes, in line with the minimalism and the gothic lolita current, the makeup was called “magnetic look”. Guy Laroche on Vogue Italy September 1995
Mysterious, neo-Gothic, and Glam. The Magnetic Look becomes “Pure Black Graphic” and greatly anticipates Lady Gaga’s makeup. Fall Winter 1995 1996. On the right Lady Gaga pays homage to David Bowie with Orange Hair & Blue Eye MakeupAt Grammys
Minimal like the brand she represents, Amber Valletta poses for Jil Sander, photographed by Craig McDean. Vogue Italia September 1995. The look is ready for what will be fashionable the following year, on the way to reaching the peak of minimalism.
Golden powders, green tones that come down from the eyes and mark the cheekbones. An aspect ready for 2000. We are in April 1996. Ph by Craig McDean for Vogue Italia. T-shirt Prada. Model Amy Wesson
Total minimal look. Ph Craig McDean for Vogue Italia April 1996
A fresh and minimal look for the summer of 1996: clear face and lips, blue-rimmed eyes with a reworked smokey. Vogue Italy April 1996
December 1996. The Chanel woman is refined, her face is clear, bright, almost absent, a silver powder on her hair makes her appear as coming from the very near 2000.

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90s Make-Up: the guide. Pt 1

The Lux on 90s Make-Up

«Com’era il trucco negli anni ’90?» Una domanda che il mio pubblico di follower, studenti e professionisti mi rivolge spesso. A differenza dei decenni precedenti infatti, caratterizzati proprio da trucco e acconciature ben definibili e strong, nei 90s gli estremismi paiono svanire in favore di un volto in linea con il minimalismo, circondato da una semplice riga al centro. Vedremo nelle immagini che ho raccolto per voi, come nel 1990 e 1991 si assista a revival di stili primi ’60, per poi dal 1992 evolversi attraverso il Grunge. Ci sono tuttavia dei punti fermi a cui impossibile sottrarsi per realizzare un make-up perfettamente primi 90s:

1: Volto chiaro, chiarissimo, opacizzato dalla cipria.

2: Labbra – in contrasto col pallore – ingrandite da rossetti Mat di colori scuri, estremamente usato il color mattone, il bordeaux, il vinaccia, in alcuni casi anche il rosso e il nero, per un look creepy – neo goth.

3: Blush, poco, utile ad accendere le guance, che spesso erano rosa dall’effetto naturale, come accese dal freddo. Nell’estate del 1993 fu di moda il rosso corallo nelle sue sfumature, alternato al “deserto rosa”, con toni ambrati, sfumature sabbia, argilla, polveri avorio rosé.

4: Occhi intensi e languidi con ombretti sfumati, molto leggeri, nei toni dell’arancio, del bordeaux, del viola, per uno sguardo perduto e malaticcio da bad girl, evidenziato da un sottile rigo di eyeliner in stile anni ’60.

5: Sopracciglia sottili, molto sottili, in casi più estremi anche del tutto depilate.

Nel complesso gli anni ’90 hanno racchiuso nella loro estetica, un insieme di novità provenienti da culture ed epoche diverse, segnando il trionfo del Vintage. Era assai alla moda il revival relativo al periodo fine anni ’60 primi anni ’70. A partire dal 1992 il cambiamento sociale venne interpretato dalla moda attraverso la creazione di abiti e look essenziali, acconciature semplici, e volti dal trucco minimal chic, il make-up fu di ispirazione agli anni ’20. Fu proprio nel 1992 che dal mondo musicale di Seattle giunse il Grunge, diffondendo lo stile estetico di band come i Sonich Youth e i Nirvana sulle passerelle. Icone della musica e del cinema, come Curtney Love e Drew Barrymore, comparivano in tv e sui magazine indossando quello stile che pareva provenire da una dimensione notturna e da un tempo lontano. Nel 1993 il revival dello stile anni ’70 crebbe, anche grazie al look di Madonna (vedi articolo cliccando qui) che nel suo video “Deeper and Deeper” ripropose con successo una splendida estetica “Disco”. Intanto insieme ad attrici e cantanti il fashion system e la cultura pop celebravano nuove eroine: supermodelle dai volti straordinari, testimonial contese dagli stilisti ed emulate dal pubblico di tutto il mondo, anche nel trucco. Di seguito una serie di immagini che ripercorrono gli anni ’90, l’edonismo che ha caratterizzato questo decennio è visibile sui volti, il trucco è un segno, e si vede. Nel mio prossimo articolo la storia del Make-Up dal 1994 al 1999.

Chi vuole approfondire tematiche riguardanti aspetti insoliti della storia della moda può leggere il mio libro, il link al termine di questo articolo.

Luciano Lapadula

© COPYRIGHT

CLICK HERE for: 1994 - 1996
CLICK HERE for: 1997 - 1999

“What was the makeup like in the 90s?” A question that my audience of followers, students and professionals often asks me. Unlike previous decades, in fact, characterized precisely by make-up and hairstyles well defined and strong, in the 90s the extremisms seem to fade in favor of a face in line with minimalism, surrounded by a simple middle part. We will see in the images that I have collected for you, how in the 1990s and 1991 there was a revival of early 60s styles, and then from 1992 everything evolved through Grunge. However, there are some fixed points that it is impossible to avoid in order to create a perfectly early 90s make-up:

1: Face clear, very clear, opacified by face powder.

2: Lips – in contrast to the pallor – enlarged by Mat lipsticks of dark colors, brick, burgundy, marc, in some cases even red and black, for a creepy – neo goth look.

3: Blush, little, useful for lighting the cheeks, which were often pink with a natural effect, as if lit by the cold. In the summer of 1993, coral red was fashionable in its shades, alternating with the “pink desert”, with amber tones, shades of sand, clay, ivory and rosé powders.

4: Intense and languid eyes with shaded, very light eyeshadows in shades of orange, burgundy, purple, for a lost and sickly bad girl look, highlighted by a thin line of 60s-style eyeliner .

5: Thin eyebrows, very thin, in more extreme cases even completely depilated.

Overall, the 90s enclosed in their aesthetics a set of novelties from different cultures, marking the triumph of Vintage. The revival for the late 60s and early 70s was very fashionable. Starting in 1992, social change was interpreted by fashion through the creation of essential clothes and looks, simple hairstyles, and faces with minimal chic makeup that was inspired by the 1920s. It was in 1992 that Grunge came from the musical world of Seattle, spreading the aesthetic style of bands like Sonich Youth and Nirvana on the catwalks. Music and cinema icons, such as Curtney Love and Drew Barrymore, appeared on TV and in magazines wearing that style that seemed to come from a nocturnal dimension and from a distant time. In 1993 the revival of the 70s style grew, also thanks to Madonna’s look (see article here) who in her video “Deeper and Deeper” successfully reproduced a splendid “Disco” aesthetic. Meanwhile, together with actresses and singers, the fashion system and pop culture celebrated new heroines: supermodels with extraordinary faces, testimonials contested by stylists and emulated by audiences all over the world, even in make-up. Below is a series of images that retrace the 90s, the hedonism that characterized this decade is visible on the faces, makeup is a sign, and it shows. In my next article I will write about Make-Up in fashion history from 1994 to 1999. Anyone who wants to learn more about unusual aspects of the history of fashion can read my book, the link at the end of this article. Stay tuned and Follow me.

Luciano Lapadula

© COPYRIGHT: Do Not Copy. Contact the writer for info. Divieto di copia e riproduzione. Contattare l’autore per info e disponibilità

From my press archive, a beautiful image signed by Giorgio Armani for his “Woman of the 90s”, which seems to come from the 1920s. Hair Oribe for Oribe at Parachute Hair. Makeup Rumiko for Suga Salon Nyc
Iceberg from Vogue Italia feb 1990. The model wears a strong make-up, in line with her rock look. The hairstyle is typical of 1990
Thin hair and gull wing eyebrows for Linda Evangelista. Vogue February 1990
Supermodel Linda Evangelista in Dolce & Gabbana on Vogue Italia Aug 1990. Linda’s make-up takes up the late New Look. Sophisticated and elegant, still a little Pin-Up
Madonna from a service dedicated to her by Herb Ritts on Vogue August 1990. The singer plays with a look and pose from the past, presents herself with thick eyebrows, an aspect that will radically change the following year. Read my post on Madonna and Marlene Dietrich here
Yasmeen Ghauri Vogue Italia Feb 1991 modeling Gianmarco Venturi ph by Walter Chin. The exotic beauty of the supermodel is highlighted by a warm and still rather strong make-up, in line with the fashion of 1991. It will change the following year
A pin-up eyeliner for Yaseen Ghauri in Valentino, on Vogue Italia February 1991
Countless and quick changes of look for supermodels. On Vogue Italia August 1991 Linda Evangelista wears a Make-Up that makes us remember Sophia Loren
Sherilyn Fenn, the iconic Twin Peaks actress, makes vintage 50s-style make-up the strong point for her splendid image. Steven Meisel for Dolce & Gabbana on Vogue Italia August 1991
1992. GRUNGE is a Fashion tred. Supertop Naomi Campbell and Kristen McMenamy with “Nirvana” t-shirt Ph Steven Meisel on Vogue Us “Grunge and Glory”
Yasmeen Ghauri for Gaetano Navarra on Vogue Italy October 1992. The supermodel appears a year later with a Make-Up that is completely different from the previous one
Kate Moss arond 1992
One of the most iconic photographic shots of the 90s. Kate Moss together with Nadja Auermann wrapped in ostrich feather boas with a smokey eyes make-up, thin, languid and ethereal eyebrows evoke the atmosphere of the late 20s and early 30s (but 70s too). Dolce & Gabbana on Vogue Italy October 1992
Naomi Campbell for Anna Molinari Blumarine on Vogue Italy October 1992. 70s inspired Make-Up and Hairstyle
A minimal and bright make-up, shiny and flesh-colored lips, wet hair. Linda Evangelista sensual for Valentino Pelle on Vogue Italia October 1992
Always Linda Evangelista, this time haughty in her look that seems to come from the 60s. Very elegant and superb in Gianfranco Ferré on Vogue Italia October 1992. Ph Steven Meisel
Chanel ad. Model Christy Turlington, from Vogue Italia Dec 1992
Kristen McMenamy: an essential make-up that enhances the strong and intense features of the supermodel. Vogue Italia Dec 1992
Carla Bruni Make-Up on Vogue Italia December 1992
Christy Turlington in the early 90s poses for a photo shoot dedicated to Make-Up
Eva Herzigová, one of the most iconic face of 90s (and ever). Vogue Italia January 1993
Madonna Make-Up in 1993 c: No eyewbrows fro a 70s mood. Vintage was popular during 90s, thanks to Madonna too. Read my post on Madonna and Marlene Dietrich here
Carla Bruni wears a make-up suitable for the evening, the magazine says: very clear 60s style mouth
Supertop Helena Christensen on Vogue Italia Jan 1993
Stephanie Seymour, she wears a smokey eyes make-up that revisits the 60s style. Vogue Italia January 1993
Curly Middle Part for the beautiful top model Claudia Schiffer, 1993
Linda Evangelista. Oh yes this is very 90s
Kate Moss wears a Make-Up in perfect 90s style, which enhances the beauty of the face without hiding it
Still Kate Moss in 1993 with her special Make-Up, trend of the ’93 autumn: Romantic Glow. Ph Guy Marineau
Light shades and brick lipstick for an iconic make-up on an iconic supermodel: Eva Herzigová for Giorgio Grati. She adopted a Marilyn Monroe style. Vogue Italia October 1993
Very clear faces, 20s style thin eyebrows and middle part. This is the 90s face
Vogue Italia December 1993. The lightheartedness of that time on the faces of the models.
See you on my next article about make-up from ’94 to ’99.

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