Pubblicato il Lascia un commento

90s Make-Up: the guide. Pt 1

The Lux on 90s Make-Up

«Com’era il trucco negli anni ’90?» Una domanda che il mio pubblico di follower, studenti e professionisti mi rivolge spesso. A differenza dei decenni precedenti infatti, caratterizzati proprio da trucco e acconciature ben definibili e strong, nei 90s gli estremismi paiono svanire in favore di un volto in linea con il minimalismo, circondato da una semplice riga al centro. Vedremo nelle immagini che ho raccolto per voi, come nel 1990 e 1991 si assista a revival di stili primi ’60, per poi dal 1992 evolversi attraverso il Grunge. Ci sono tuttavia dei punti fermi a cui impossibile sottrarsi per realizzare un make-up perfettamente primi 90s:

1: Volto chiaro, chiarissimo, opacizzato dalla cipria.

2: Labbra – in contrasto col pallore – ingrandite da rossetti Mat di colori scuri, estremamente usato il color mattone, il bordeaux, il vinaccia, in alcuni casi anche il rosso e il nero, per un look creepy – neo goth.

3: Blush, poco, utile ad accendere le guance, che spesso erano rosa dall’effetto naturale, come accese dal freddo. Nell’estate del 1993 fu di moda il rosso corallo nelle sue sfumature, alternato al “deserto rosa”, con toni ambrati, sfumature sabbia, argilla, polveri avorio rosé.

4: Occhi intensi e languidi con ombretti sfumati, molto leggeri, nei toni dell’arancio, del bordeaux, del viola, per uno sguardo perduto e malaticcio da bad girl, evidenziato da un sottile rigo di eyeliner in stile anni ’60.

5: Sopracciglia sottili, molto sottili, in casi più estremi anche del tutto depilate.

Nel complesso gli anni ’90 hanno racchiuso nella loro estetica, un insieme di novità provenienti da culture ed epoche diverse, segnando il trionfo del Vintage. Era assai alla moda il revival relativo al periodo fine anni ’60 primi anni ’70. A partire dal 1992 il cambiamento sociale venne interpretato dalla moda attraverso la creazione di abiti e look essenziali, acconciature semplici, e volti dal trucco minimal chic, il make-up fu di ispirazione agli anni ’20. Fu proprio nel 1992 che dal mondo musicale di Seattle giunse il Grunge, diffondendo lo stile estetico di band come i Sonich Youth e i Nirvana sulle passerelle. Icone della musica e del cinema, come Curtney Love e Drew Barrymore, comparivano in tv e sui magazine indossando quello stile che pareva provenire da una dimensione notturna e da un tempo lontano. Nel 1993 il revival dello stile anni ’70 crebbe, anche grazie al look di Madonna (vedi articolo cliccando qui) che nel suo video “Deeper and Deeper” ripropose con successo una splendida estetica “Disco”. Intanto insieme ad attrici e cantanti il fashion system e la cultura pop celebravano nuove eroine: supermodelle dai volti straordinari, testimonial contese dagli stilisti ed emulate dal pubblico di tutto il mondo, anche nel trucco. Di seguito una serie di immagini che ripercorrono gli anni ’90, l’edonismo che ha caratterizzato questo decennio è visibile sui volti, il trucco è un segno, e si vede. Nel mio prossimo articolo la storia del Make-Up dal 1994 al 1999.

Chi vuole approfondire tematiche riguardanti aspetti insoliti della storia della moda può leggere il mio libro, il link al termine di questo articolo.

Luciano Lapadula

© COPYRIGHT

CLICK HERE for: 1994 - 1996
CLICK HERE for: 1997 - 1999

“What was the makeup like in the 90s?” A question that my audience of followers, students and professionals often asks me. Unlike previous decades, in fact, characterized precisely by make-up and hairstyles well defined and strong, in the 90s the extremisms seem to fade in favor of a face in line with minimalism, surrounded by a simple middle part. We will see in the images that I have collected for you, how in the 1990s and 1991 there was a revival of early 60s styles, and then from 1992 everything evolved through Grunge. However, there are some fixed points that it is impossible to avoid in order to create a perfectly early 90s make-up:

1: Face clear, very clear, opacified by face powder.

2: Lips – in contrast to the pallor – enlarged by Mat lipsticks of dark colors, brick, burgundy, marc, in some cases even red and black, for a creepy – neo goth look.

3: Blush, little, useful for lighting the cheeks, which were often pink with a natural effect, as if lit by the cold. In the summer of 1993, coral red was fashionable in its shades, alternating with the “pink desert”, with amber tones, shades of sand, clay, ivory and rosé powders.

4: Intense and languid eyes with shaded, very light eyeshadows in shades of orange, burgundy, purple, for a lost and sickly bad girl look, highlighted by a thin line of 60s-style eyeliner .

5: Thin eyebrows, very thin, in more extreme cases even completely depilated.

Overall, the 90s enclosed in their aesthetics a set of novelties from different cultures, marking the triumph of Vintage. The revival for the late 60s and early 70s was very fashionable. Starting in 1992, social change was interpreted by fashion through the creation of essential clothes and looks, simple hairstyles, and faces with minimal chic makeup that was inspired by the 1920s. It was in 1992 that Grunge came from the musical world of Seattle, spreading the aesthetic style of bands like Sonich Youth and Nirvana on the catwalks. Music and cinema icons, such as Curtney Love and Drew Barrymore, appeared on TV and in magazines wearing that style that seemed to come from a nocturnal dimension and from a distant time. In 1993 the revival of the 70s style grew, also thanks to Madonna’s look (see article here) who in her video “Deeper and Deeper” successfully reproduced a splendid “Disco” aesthetic. Meanwhile, together with actresses and singers, the fashion system and pop culture celebrated new heroines: supermodels with extraordinary faces, testimonials contested by stylists and emulated by audiences all over the world, even in make-up. Below is a series of images that retrace the 90s, the hedonism that characterized this decade is visible on the faces, makeup is a sign, and it shows. In my next article I will write about Make-Up in fashion history from 1994 to 1999. Anyone who wants to learn more about unusual aspects of the history of fashion can read my book, the link at the end of this article. Stay tuned and Follow me.

Luciano Lapadula

© COPYRIGHT: Do Not Copy. Contact the writer for info. Divieto di copia e riproduzione. Contattare l’autore per info e disponibilità

From my press archive, a beautiful image signed by Giorgio Armani for his “Woman of the 90s”, which seems to come from the 1920s. Hair Oribe for Oribe at Parachute Hair. Makeup Rumiko for Suga Salon Nyc
Iceberg from Vogue Italia feb 1990. The model wears a strong make-up, in line with her rock look. The hairstyle is typical of 1990
Thin hair and gull wing eyebrows for Linda Evangelista. Vogue February 1990
Supermodel Linda Evangelista in Dolce & Gabbana on Vogue Italia Aug 1990. Linda’s make-up takes up the late New Look. Sophisticated and elegant, still a little Pin-Up
Madonna from a service dedicated to her by Herb Ritts on Vogue August 1990. The singer plays with a look and pose from the past, presents herself with thick eyebrows, an aspect that will radically change the following year. Read my post on Madonna and Marlene Dietrich here
Yasmeen Ghauri Vogue Italia Feb 1991 modeling Gianmarco Venturi ph by Walter Chin. The exotic beauty of the supermodel is highlighted by a warm and still rather strong make-up, in line with the fashion of 1991. It will change the following year
A pin-up eyeliner for Yaseen Ghauri in Valentino, on Vogue Italia February 1991
Countless and quick changes of look for supermodels. On Vogue Italia August 1991 Linda Evangelista wears a Make-Up that makes us remember Sophia Loren
Sherilyn Fenn, the iconic Twin Peaks actress, makes vintage 50s-style make-up the strong point for her splendid image. Steven Meisel for Dolce & Gabbana on Vogue Italia August 1991
1992. GRUNGE is a Fashion tred. Supertop Naomi Campbell and Kristen McMenamy with “Nirvana” t-shirt Ph Steven Meisel on Vogue Us “Grunge and Glory”
Yasmeen Ghauri for Gaetano Navarra on Vogue Italy October 1992. The supermodel appears a year later with a Make-Up that is completely different from the previous one
Kate Moss arond 1992
One of the most iconic photographic shots of the 90s. Kate Moss together with Nadja Auermann wrapped in ostrich feather boas with a smokey eyes make-up, thin, languid and ethereal eyebrows evoke the atmosphere of the late 20s and early 30s (but 70s too). Dolce & Gabbana on Vogue Italy October 1992
Naomi Campbell for Anna Molinari Blumarine on Vogue Italy October 1992. 70s inspired Make-Up and Hairstyle
A minimal and bright make-up, shiny and flesh-colored lips, wet hair. Linda Evangelista sensual for Valentino Pelle on Vogue Italia October 1992
Always Linda Evangelista, this time haughty in her look that seems to come from the 60s. Very elegant and superb in Gianfranco Ferré on Vogue Italia October 1992. Ph Steven Meisel
Chanel ad. Model Christy Turlington, from Vogue Italia Dec 1992
Kristen McMenamy: an essential make-up that enhances the strong and intense features of the supermodel. Vogue Italia Dec 1992
Carla Bruni Make-Up on Vogue Italia December 1992
Christy Turlington in the early 90s poses for a photo shoot dedicated to Make-Up
Eva Herzigová, one of the most iconic face of 90s (and ever). Vogue Italia January 1993
Madonna Make-Up in 1993 c: No eyewbrows fro a 70s mood. Vintage was popular during 90s, thanks to Madonna too. Read my post on Madonna and Marlene Dietrich here
Carla Bruni wears a make-up suitable for the evening, the magazine says: very clear 60s style mouth
Supertop Helena Christensen on Vogue Italia Jan 1993
Stephanie Seymour, she wears a smokey eyes make-up that revisits the 60s style. Vogue Italia January 1993
Curly Middle Part for the beautiful top model Claudia Schiffer, 1993
Linda Evangelista. Oh yes this is very 90s
Kate Moss wears a Make-Up in perfect 90s style, which enhances the beauty of the face without hiding it
Still Kate Moss in 1993 with her special Make-Up, trend of the ’93 autumn: Romantic Glow. Ph Guy Marineau
Light shades and brick lipstick for an iconic make-up on an iconic supermodel: Eva Herzigová for Giorgio Grati. She adopted a Marilyn Monroe style. Vogue Italia October 1993
Very clear faces, 20s style thin eyebrows and middle part. This is the 90s face
Vogue Italia December 1993. The lightheartedness of that time on the faces of the models.
See you on my next article about make-up from ’94 to ’99.

Shop my Book.

“The Macabre and Grotesque in Fashion and Costume History”

Il mio libro: “Il Macabro e il Grottesco nella Moda e nel Costume”. Clicca l’immagine per info e shop

Follow my Blog: https://theluxon.com

Follow Me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/iamlucianolapadula/

Follow Me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lucianolapadulaofficial/

Follow Me on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXPI69uNrqeejgYR1fH9ASw

Pubblicato il Lascia un commento

Ready to Wear from Thierry Mugler ss 1992.

If the concept of “Ready to Wear” approaches “Ready Made”, to the surreal, to the world of art in its many facets. Thierry Mugler spring summer 1992. Supermodels Niki Taylor, Yasmeen Ghauri and Naomi Campbell. The three amazing and different types of beauties of the supermodels create a unique aesthetic picture of its kind. Unrepeatable today. Iconic moments for a style that ironizes on the past, on the present and on the future…on fashion, on the wearability of a dress, on its opulent aesthetics.

Niki Taylor
Yasmeen Ghauri
Yasmeen Ghauri

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

Divieto di copia e riproduzione.

Contattare l’autore per info e disponibilità

Do Not Copy. Contact the writer for info

Discover more from my Blog:

www.lucianolapadula.wordpress.com

Follow Me on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/iamlucianolapadula/

Follow Me on Facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/lucianolapadulaofficial/

Follow Me on Youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXPI69uNrqeejgYR1fH9ASw

Acquista il mio libro. Clicca sull’immagine per info.

Shop my Book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume”.

Click on the pic for info.

Pubblicato il Lascia un commento

Hairstyles Revival in time

revival hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair

Le acconciature al pari degli indumenti seguono delle tendenze ben precise spesso in linea con un mood che riporta in auge fogge del passato. Ecco alcuni hairstyle che ho studiato e che sono frutto di rielaborazioni di mode più vecchie.

Hairstyles like garments follow trends often in line with a mood that makes comeback styles of the past. Here are some hairstyles that I have studied that are the result of reworkings of older fashions. Follow me for more.

© COPYRIGHT: Luciano Lapadula

Divieto di copia e riproduzione.

Contattare l’autore per info e disponibilità

Do Not Copy. Contact the writer for info

1855 1955 50s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses victorian hair
Haistyle: 1855 vs 1955

1920s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 20s cher louise brooks hair
Louise Brooks in 20s – Cher in 1972 by Richard Avedon

1940s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 40s pinup
Tricia Helfer for Yves Saint Laurent in 1996 vs Betty Grable in 40s

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy elle pageboy
Pageboy from 70s to now with Alice Kastrup. Ph credit Filippo Del Vita for Creem Magazine

1970s hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses 70s gothic rolled hair raquel zimmermann guido palau copy
Rolled Hair in 70s and Guido Palau from “Hair” 2014

katy perry hedy lamarr hairstyle hisory fashion storia della moda fashion magazine fashion historian expert hairdresses makeup hair waves 40s 2018 2019 2017
1940s waves and make-up from Hedy Lamarr to contemporary Katy Perry

eve salvail 1994 dior 2018 hairstyle men gay sex sexuality androginy 90s
Supermodel Eve Salvail in glorious 1994 vs Dior men 2018

The #bighair of #PriscillaPresley in 1968 are now on #Valentino runway
The big hair of Priscilla Presley in 1968 are in 2018 on Valentino runway

Acquista il mio libro. Clicca sull’immagine per info.
Shop my Book

The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume History“.

Click on the pic for info.

Pubblicato il Lascia un commento

5 drawings from Andrew Loomis that look as 90s supermodels

andrew loomis supermodel 90s 40s hairstyle makeup art blog fashion museum storia luciano lapadula moda yves saint laurent ss summer 1996 90er blog blogger moda

La riflessione sulla bellezza porta a percorrere strade impervie, in cui è facile smarrirsi nella ricerca della perfezione che lasci riconoscere il bello in senso universale e oggettivo. Da qui parte il fremito che mi ha attraversato quando ho visto i disegni di Andrew Loomis: in alcune sue opere degli anni ’40 infatti, pare l’artista abbia ritratto alcune supermodelle anni ’90 anticipandone l’immagine di 50 anni circa. Vediamo tre di questi miei confronti.

The reflection on beauty leads to travel through impervious roads, in which it is easy to lose oneself in the search for perfection that allows us to recognize beauty in a universal and objective sense. From here starts the thrill that crossed me when I saw the drawings of Andrew Loomis: in some of his artworks from 40s it seems the artist has portrayed some supermodels of the 90s anticipating the image of that kind of beauty about 50 years. We see five of these comparisons of mine.

© COPYRIGHT: 

Divieto di copia e riproduzione.
Contattare l’autore per info e disponibilità
Do Not Copy. Contact the writer for info

andrew loomis linda evangelista yellow suit art blog fashion museum storia luciano lapadula moda christian dior 1992 1993
On the right Linda Evangelista for Christian Dior 1992 1993

andrew loomis supermodel 90s 40s hairstyle makeup art blog fashion museum storia luciano lapadula moda yves saint laurent ss summer 1996 90er shalom harlow top
On the right Shalom Harlow in 1995

andrew loomis supermodel 90s 40s hairstyle makeup art blog fashion museum storia luciano lapadula moda yves saint laurent ss summer 1996 90er carla bruni
On the right Carla Bruni for Yves Saint Laurent ss 1996

andrew loomis supermodel 90s 40s hairstyle makeup art blog fashion museum storia luciano lapadula moda yves saint laurent ss summer 1996 90er
Still Yves Saint Laurent 1996

andrew loomis supermodel 90s 40s hairstyle makeup art blog fashion museum storia luciano lapadula moda yves saint laurent ss summer 1996 90er eva herzigova top
On the right supermodel Eva Herzigova 1993 ca

 Follow Me on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/iamlucianolapadula/

Follow Me on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/lucianolapadulaofficial/

Follow Me on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXPI69uNrqeejgYR1fH9ASw

 

VIDEO:
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONIhsd3igf8]

Acquista il mio libro. Clicca sull’immagine per info.
Shop my Book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume”. Click on the pic for info.

Pubblicato il Lascia un commento

Moana: dal Porno alla Santità – Moana: from porn to holiness

moana pozzi blog storia porno porn italy italian 90s anni 90 luciano lapadula libro mistero

 

L’imperatrice Teodora, Madame Du Barry, Mata Hary, Marilyn Monroe, Moana Pozzi.

Cosa hanno in comune tra loro queste donne? Non la bellezza, ma fascino e mistero che avvolgono la loro persona in un’ aurea mitica e splendente. Sono donne che hanno segnato in modo permanente le differenti  epoche storiche in cui hanno vissuto, anche o soprattutto attraverso la propria gestualità, i propri gusti vestimentari e la propria vita sessuale.

Il caso di Moana, bionda star del porno, notata anche da Federico Fellini che la scelse per un ruolo nel film “Ginger e Fred”, solca in modo evidente e nuovo la superficie del classico perbenismo dell’Italia degli anni ’80. Dopo i concorsi di bellezza e qualche provino andato male, Moana scelse la carriera nel filone della cinematografia Hard, divenendone la stella più nota nel panorama internazionale, mai raggiunta sin ora e credo mai possa esserlo in futuro.

La singolarità del caso Moana risiede tuttavia non nella sua fulgida carriera di attrice quanto nell’ascesa a star della cultura Pop. Come per coloro che la precedettero, ma differentemente per esplicitazione della propria identità lavorativa, lei fece dell’arte di amare una virtù, impiegandola in ambiti assai vari: dalle pellicole porno alla politica. Oltre ad aver lavorato al “Partito dell’Amore”, infatti Moana come Mata sedusse i più importanti e satrapi uomini politici del suo tempo carpendo loro considerevoli segreti.

Divenne così sempre più nota al pubblico di ogni genere ed età, e nelle notti degli anni ’90 era spesso ospite del “Costanzo Show” per raccontare maliarda alcuni aspetti della propria vita a morbosi spettatori e fan. Una star del pop dunque, amata dalle donne quanto dagli uomini, le une perché forse rivedevano in lei quella parte del Sé colma di eros e di proibito, gli altri perché Moana come Marilyn, incarnava il più sublime desiderio carnale.

Il mondo della moda si accorse del fenomeno, l’attrice era una macchina esplosiva che catturava l’attenzione mediatica, così nei primi anni ’90 la bionda atomica sfilò in passerella per stilisti come Fendi, Chiara Boni, e Karl Lagerfeld il quale affermò: “le donne si muovono come Moana, mica come una top model”.

moana chiara boni
Moana Pozzi modeling Chiara Boni in early 90s

Triste l’epilogo di questa strana favola, la precoce scomparsa della Diva ha cancellato per sempre l’aspetto volgare e terreno della sua esistenza consacrandolo a figura mitica.
Moana come una moderna icona ha generato tendenze e creato look, e tutt’ora – unico esempio nella storia – la sua vita è presentata quasi come quella di una santa, rapita dalla morte mentre fluttuava in uno stato di grazia.

moana 1
La bella Moana

Continua la nostra bella a far parlare di sé, come per le grandi star di fama mondiale, c’è chi giura sia ancora viva e abbia scelto di cambiare vita, ancora una volta. C’è poi chi la vuole uccisa a causa dello spionaggio, e chi semplicemente come noi la ricorda sensuale, prorompentemente fasciata in un luccicante vestito rosso, mentre sorride alla camera e spostando la sua bella acconciatura in stile retrò ci dice “Vivi Come Se Dovessi Morire Domani e Pensa Come Se Non Dovessi Morire Mai“.

© COPYRIGHT: 

Divieto di copia e riproduzione.

Contattare l’autore per info e disponibilità

Moana in una delle sue ultime apparizioni tv
Moana in una delle sue ultime apparizioni tv

Theodora Empress , Madame Du Barry, Mata Hary, Marilyn Monroe, Moana Pozzi.

What do these women have in common? Not the beauty, but charm and mystery that envelop their person in a golden and shining aura. They are women who have permanently marked the different historical periods in which they lived, even or especially through their gestures, their vestiges tastes and their sexual life.

The case of Moana, blonde porn star, also noticed by Federico Fellini who chose her for a role in the film “Ginger and Fred”, plots the surface of the classic respectability of Italy in the 80s in an evident and new way. After the beauty contests and some unsuccessful auditions, Moana chose a career in the film industry of Hard, becoming the star best known in the international scene, never reached so far and I never can be in the future.

The uniqueness of the Moana case lies, however, not in her brilliant career as an actress as in the rise to star of Pop culture. As for those who preceded her, but differently by explication of her own work identity, she made the art of loving a virtue, using it in very different fields: from porn films to politics. In addition to having worked at the “Party of Love”, Moana as Mata seduced the most important and satrafic politicians of her time, taking considerable secrets from them.

It became more and more known to the public of all kinds and ages, and in the nights of the 90s it was often a guest of the “Costanzo Show” to tell a few wistful aspects of their lives to morbid spectators and fans. A pop star, therefore, loved by women as much as by men, because perhaps they saw in her that part of the Self filled with eros and forbidden, the others because Moana as Marilyn, embodied the most sublime carnal desire.

The fashion system noticed the Moana phenomenon, an explosive machine that captures media attention, so in the early 90s the atomic blonde parades on the catwalk for designers like Fendi, Chiara Boni, and Karl Lagerfeld who said: “women they move like Moana, not like a supermodel “.

Sad the epilogue of this strange tale, the early disappearance of the Diva has forever erased the vulgar and earthly aspect of its existence consecrating it to a mythical figure.
Moana as a modern icon has generated trends and created look, and still – the only example in history – her life is presented almost like that of a saint, kidnapped by death while floating in a state of grace.

Our beauty continues to be talked about, as for the world famous big stars, there are those who swear are still alive and have chosen to change their lives, once again. Then there are those who want to kill her because of espionage, and who just as we remember her sensual, proromently bandaged in a shimmery red dress, while smiling at the camera and moving his beautiful hairstyle in retro style tells us “Live Like If Should I Dying Tomorrow and Thinking As If I Should Never Die “.

© COPYRIGHT: 

Do Not Copy. Contact the writer for info

Follow Me on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/iamlucianolapadula/

Follow Me on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/lucianolapadulaofficial/

Follow Me on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXPI69uNrqeejgYR1fH9ASw

Acquista il mio libro. Clicca sull’immagine per info.
Shop my Book “The Macabre and the Grotesque in Fashion and Costume”. Click on the pic for info.